Using the table below, by taking the 11th and 12th digit of your VIN number, you can identify the precise year/month your car was built. VIN Decoder.

In the early stages of the mk5, cylinder head gasket warranty failures occurred resulting in Ford producing an up rated head gasket to solve the problem.

The I4 can often develop oil seepage from the head gasket in the region of the number 4 piston. This has been monitored over a few years by various owners and nothing other than slight oil seepage develops.

Cases have come to light of the I4 losing up to 10psi of oil pressure, which if left can result in hydraulic tappet failure/failure type systems. Upon further investigations, it has become apparent that the PRV, located in the oil pump can become loose resulting in the lost pressure. The PRV is limited as to how much it can become loose due to it eventually butting up against the timing casing. One to look out for when changing the timing chain!!!

The post 95 engines have a Cam Position Sensor port located in the rocker cover which is blanked off. This is due to the rocker cover been the same as the one used in the 2.3  engine  used in the Galaxy which uses the Ford EEC5, requiring the use of this sensor. Problems can occur with the EDIS module that is situated on the inner wing just to the right of the brake servo, wiring faults occur that can produce idle hunting and misfiring. A common fix is to wire a permanent ground direct to the battery (EDIS pin 9 to earth). 

Other usual checks include, removal of the oil cap to look for white sludge indicating a failed head gasket/cylinder head and looking for blue smoke indicating piston ring abuse or valve stem seal failure.


Lambda sensors - The Lambda  sensors (as the I4 uses 2) are situated on the manifold just where it bends to go underneath the car. Should they fail the result is poor fuel economy and high emissions (MOT fail) they are costly to replace (Ford Original ones) and cant really be tested by anything apart from special equipment. Universal 4 wire replacements are a cheaper option for replacement of failed items. Fault codes for failed items are logged in the ECU and can be displayed using a suitable FCR (Fault Code Reader).

Cat - Is situated between the manifold and center box, When they fail they severely restrict gas flow resulting in very poor performance and an inability to rev higher than 4-5k RPM. It’s common to take the CAT off but is needed for the MOT if your car was registered after 1992. 1991 mk5s can get away without a CAT for the test. If the exhaust has a rattle to it, this could be a sign of cat failure due to the block within becoming insecure/starting to break up.

Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) - This is the ECU controlled valve that opens at idle to control the air flow to the engine. It is located on top of the air filter housing. An erratic idle speed can point towards a sticking idle speed control valve/dirty throttle body. This can be Cleaned easily with carburetor cleaner to rectify this. Other checks to rectify a erratic idle can also include dirty multi-plug connections. The engine should start-up from cold without applying any throttle, run at fast idle and then drop to normal idle speed (950rpm) within 5 seconds.

Air pulse - The Pipes on the Manifold are for the Air Injection system; the system injects Air when the engine is cold in order to heat up the Cat quicker! This is all it does and can be removed without any ill effects on vehicle running or mot testing. A quick method sometimes used in removal of this system is just to fit blanking plugs to the ports. This is not recommended as this way, no benefit at all is achieved.

Water pump - These are inexpensive to buy but require the engine to be moved off its mounts to change!

Timing Chain - The I4 engine uses a Timing chain instead of a belt. This extends the life but the chain can still fail! There is no set target to change the chain and is said to be good for up to 100,000 miles. Best advice is to do it at 60.000 miles! If the chain is worn then it will be very noisy on tick over as well having an ill effect on cam timing due to its increased length. To replace the chain is not an easy task but is possible to the DIY er.

Gearbox - Check synchro between 2-3rd gears when the box is hot! It’s a common fault to get a crunch when changing gear fast! Also 1^st/reverse can be hard to engage when the box is cold. Output seals should be checked for leakage, as this can be expensive to repair. The viscous coupling on the 4x4 can also fail resulting in total or nearly total loss of drive to the front wheels. The video HERE shows the effect this has on a 4x4, basically the car becomes rear-wheel drive.

Transfer box (4x4) - First thing to do if your purchasing a 4X4 is too check you are actually looking at a 4x4. There has been 1 or 2 cases where the transfer box has totally failed, and the cars have been made into 2wd. It’s important to adhere to the guides when working on the front suspension or engine bay as abnormal loads can be put on the box and cause it to fail! It should also be noted, the 4x4 should never be towed with one axle suspended. Ford doesn’t make transfer boxes any more/find it hard too get  a replacement. It should be noted, transfer box failure is not a common occurrence.  Checks should be made to ensure the oil has been changed at the correct intervals (every 10,000 miles).  

Differential - The 4x4 rear differential can at times emit a loud click noise which may cause concern to some owners. This usually happens upon taking up the drive. My car has done this from brand new and after investigation, the result is there is nothing to be concerned about. It is purely the sound created when the backlash (free play) is taken up between the crown wheel and pinion.

Clutch - This all depends on the previous drivers habits. Mine is still on the original clutch at 78,000 and still going strong. A check for slip should be carried out by trying to pull away in 2nd/3rd gear, if the RPM increases with no vehicle movement the clutch is slipping. Any whine/rumble at idle speed but then disappears when the clutch is pressed can indicate a failing clutch release bearing.

Power Assisted Steering (PAS) - Nothing apparent falls into this category. The usually checks for leaks, especially at the reservoir outlet and correct function should be carried out.

BRAKES - Listen for any clicking when applying brakes whilst moving this could indicate warping. Another indication of warped disks can be steering vibration at speed with in extreme cases, a pulsing effect felt on the brake pedal. Rear brake cylinders have been known to leak so check for fluid deposits. 4 Disc Brakes are standard on All Mk5, Mk5a and 4x4 Mk6 Models. It’s only the 2wd Mk6 that has rear drums as this model has 4 wheel ABS sensors instead of just on the front wheels. 

The Mk6 2wd does also not have the load-apportioning valve. Mk5 rear brakes actually use discs for normal braking and a pair of small shoes for the parking brake. These shoes are inside the hub and can be troublesome, check that the hand brake holds the car with the approximately 3-5 clicks. On the 4x4 version, if an irritating squeak from the rear of the car is evident when driving, this can be the return springs of the load-apportioning valves. A de-rust of these springs and a dose of wd40 cures it.  

Generally, the ABS is reliable; the warning light should come on when the ignition is switched on, and then go out quickly.

Check by doing a hard brake test that the ABS is functioning.

On the mk6 2wd when you pull away and reach 1500rpm in 1^st gear, the abs system will do a self-test and you should hear a small 'click' as the valves open and close themselves.

SUSPENSION - Front track control arm bushes can wear (Ford items last approximately 35-40,000 miles) which can result in unevenly worn tyres/unstable steering and knocking. Kerbed alloys may indicate an unloved motor and mean you'll need to get the alignment set up. Shock absorbers last roughly 35-45,000 miles, for normal road use. Dampers and springs differ between Mk5 and Mk6. There are limited aftermarket options for the 4x4 with only one company producing lowering springs. If the car doesn’t sit right, don’t dismiss this as tired suspension; it could be the cars suffered accident damage at one time or other. Cars fitted with 16" or 17" wheels can suffer from inner edge tyre wear if not set up correctly.

Rear Link Arm bushes on the 4x4 are starting to fail on the higher mileage/older models. New bushes are available from Deflex in a complete rear end set. www.deflex.co.uk

Wheel Bearings - check for noise and extra heat on the wheel, a duff bearing will sound like it’s grinding and will generate heat.

Wheels -  Mk5 and Mk5a used 15" split 5 spoke polished alloy wheels that were one of the most cursed items on the vehicle due to them been  prone to corrosion. However, any good wheel restorer can revive them to there full glory. The Mk6 uses painted 15" 5 spoke wheels also used on the SI and Cabriolet models, tyre size 195 / 50 / 15 V rating. It is possible to fit 17" wheels to all marks of the RS2000 but it is recommend that the suspension should be maintained at the original ride height, as tyre scrubbing to the wheel arch can and will occur. The Mk6 RS2000 came with a spare space saver wheel, size 125/80 R15, tyre made by uniroyal due to the reduced bootwell depth because of the rear differential.

BODYWORK – The RS2000 came with the standard Ford six year anti corrosion warranty from new, but as production of the RS2000 expired in June 1996, all but the odd few cars sold in 1997/98 still have a valid warranty.
Rust: Fords best friend! Check everywhere! Mk5 has a bad problem on the rear quarter where the filler cap is, the design lets water settle and cause the panel to rust from the inside! It’s a big job to put right. Battery trays can also suffer from corrosion if left to penetrate.

Mk6 is better protected from rust but still has problem on the tailgate where the spoiler is bolted to it, some don’t sit right and allow water to penetrate and rot the boot. Any sign of excessive stone chipping to the front of the car, should be repaired before rust can take a hold. 

Early RS2000`s can suffer from seized Fuel caps due to petrol fume corrosion. This is combated by using special lock lubricate.

INTERIOR - Apart from the standard checks to confirm mileage to actual use, such as seat wear, pedal rubber wear and steering wheel wear, the following should be noted.

The mk5 seat frame was prone to cracking, resulting in renewal nessercery as repair or welding is not an opinion. The drivers 4 way seat adjuster can also become loose and worn which in turn can effect the integrity/safety of the seat belt attachment point. 

On all models, annoying dash rattles and creaks can be evident, which at times, can prove almost impossible to locate. Any boot dampness which is apparent can be caused by dislocated sunroof drains. These are pipes that run down behind the boot side trim and can sometimes become dislocated from the exit flaps they are located in. Its just a case of re positioning them back into the flaps and securing them with a cable tie, something Ford should have done in the first place.

SECURITY - The standard Ford keys have a tendency to wear. Although this doesn't effect door locks, it does the fuel cap. My personal solution to this was to get a separate key cut for the fuel cap, rather than buy a new chip key for the locks/immobiliser. A good idea is to test the Ford Safeguard Alarm/immobiliser fitted to post 1994 models. Detail of the test HERE

ECU -  Pre 95 models have the 91AB ECU, this can accept the 3 wire tester such as the Gunson tester, to read fault codes. Post 95 cars don’t use this method and instead have a multi port in the passenger foot well on the cover for the ECU, you need a specialist device to talk to the ECU such as the Ford dealership Ford FD2000 unit! Details to follow shortly of a tester anybody capable of using a solder iron can make.

 Pre95 ECU's cannot be used in a 95 car as the wiring to the multiplug is slightly different and the post 95 cars have a ECU controlled, Ford safeguard electronic immobiliser. The post 95 ECU takes a signal from the transponder reader by the ignition key and if your key transponder is valid, disables the immobiliser, if you use a pre 95 ECU in your car, you wont get any lights or activity at all. The ECU also maintains an engine speed limiter. This is restricted to 6500rpm with an increase to 7000rpm if a chip is fitted. The ECU is located behind the trim panel in the left hand foot well. To identify if the car has a superchip fitted, check for the blue module plugged into the diagnostic port on the upper side of the ECU.

Electrics - The fuse box is a major problem area on the Mk5; water can get in through the loom and settle on the box! This causes corrosion and eventually dry joints. The car will then have strange electrical problems where things wont work or stops/start working randomly. Its been known for cars to cut out when they go over bumps at the extreme. The solution is to take the fuse box apart and inspect and repair all the defective solder joints, a new fuse box costs about £240. A common fix for people is to hard wire defective circuits, when checking, inspect the fuse box for any sign of extra wires that have been added to cure electrical problems, your looking at major trouble if the box is defective.

There have been reports of faults on the dashboard such as fluctuating fuel gauges - but then not many have ever found an Escort without this problem. 

Early models can also suffer from loom insulation cracking, especially that leading to the coil packs due to the heat they are in contact with.

The Side light contacts of the light switch have a tendency to wear over time (mine failed at 54,000), resulting in total loss of side and tail lights. These have been known to be repaired but if this is reliable I cannot say as I renewed mine.

The Alternator has no real failings but renewal can be a pain due to its position.

Erratic temperature readings, points to a failed sender and seems to be quite a common problem.